Ben Marcus Rules

You're that guy who goes left at Mavericks. Is that really a good idea?
LP: If by “good” you mean “safe,” absolutely not.

If I talk to your parents would they say you've been exhibiting dangerous thrill seeking behavior from a young age?

If you talk to my parents they will say quite the opposite. I have always been quite cautious, observant, and calculated. Slow to jump off the high dive and climb the steep tree. I’ll say I probably had to exercise more courage as a young boy than most of my peers.

For some reason I thought you were Brazilian or foreign in some way. But you're not, are you?

No, Sir. 

Don’t call me sir. I work for a living. Kinda.

I’m as domestic as they get. I was born and raised in Northern California - in Half Moon Bay - and consider myself a proud American through and through. 

Half Moon Bay? Ain't nothing there but steers and craft beers. Brussel sprouts and whale spouts. Artichokes and country folks. Pumpkins and bumpkins.

Don’t forget waves of consequence and Redwood forest dominance. 

My dad lived in El Granada and Moss Beach for decades. He lived on George Street in Moss Beach and then Wave Street in El Granada. He played at the Moss Beach Distillery for many years on Sundays.
No less than a stone’s throw away from where I grew up. Small town, smaller world. 

And Steve Hawk is lurking around up there somewhere.

Yep right up the street.

Are you Portuguese? There's a lot of Portuguese people in Half Moon Bay. Or there used to be. 

No Portuguese in this blood. I am Filipino on my Dad’s side. And yes, There are still plenty of great Portuguese families in Half Moon Bay.  

Okay now I know why I was thinking you were Brazilian or a Portagee or whatever. Saint Anthony de Padua: He’s a Franciscan monk which means he’s for sure a Niners fan.

He is the patron saint of seekers of lost articles - like your surfboard in the rocks, or the surface when you’re getting beat.

He is the patron against shipwrecks, against starvation, American Indians, amputees, animals, Brazil, the elderly, expectant mothers, faith, faith in the Blessed Sacrament, fishermen, harvests, mail, mariners, oppressed people, poor people, Portugal, sailors, starving people, sterility, travel hostesses, travelers, the Tigua Indians and of course, St. Anthony of Padua Church in Fresno, California.

That explains everything: Lost things, shipwrecks, fishermen, mariners, poor people, sailors, starving people. He’s a surfer’s saint. A Half Moon Bay dude.

??????????

Growing up as a surfer in Half Moon Bay Mavericks I can imagine Mavericks would always be out there lurking. Calling to you. Haunting you.

I clearly recall being a third grade student at Farallone View Elementary and getting my hands on a book that featured Mavericks. This nine year old (Me) was immediately  filled with wonder, fear, and respect for both the surfing and surviving that was happening in our backyard. 

I can imagine it was like this dude from The Warriors. Teasing and taunting you. “Oh Luuuuca Paduuuuuuaaa!!!!! Come out and Plaayyyyy-yaaay!”

How old were you when you started surfing? And where did you start surfing?

I started surfing when I was 8 or 9 years old at the sand bottom beach breaks in Half Moon Bay. Long before I got to ride my first wave, I could be found eating sand and boogie boarding on the shoreline, hanging out with my older siblings and parents. Beach days were frequent and I accumulated lots of time curiously staring out at the incoming surf. My first actual surfing wave was in session at the Junior Lifeguards program. The head of the instructor cadre graciously pushed me into a life changing one foot wave. Rest is history.

How old were you when you first started surfing Mavericks?
My first session at Mavericks was a couple weeks after my 13th birthday. 

I would ask what your parents thought about that but I'm sure you didn't tell them because I'm sure they wouldn't have allowed you to do it.
I had zero interest in giving them the opportunity to say no. 

I think Jay Moriarity was 14 when he first wanted to have a go, but Frosty said NO! and he put Jay all he put Jay through. Which most likely saved Jay’s ass when he went over the falls.

ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS? IT HAPPENED BEFORE YOU WERE BORN!!!!!????????

The way I see it, Jay at Mavericks was the worst cold-water wipeout for many years, but I think Andrew Cotton topped it when he got catapulted into the air at Nazare. That was nuts.

How did that first day go? Did you paddle out of the lagoon? Did you have the right board? Was it giant? Did you catch one? It’s something you gotta work into I would imagine.

My first day surfing Mavericks was as beautiful and inviting as that wave gets. Blue bird, sheet glass, uncrowded, 15-20 feet. Tim West loaned me an old 9’8 and escorted me through the lagoon. I’ve never had a knot in my stomach like that. I paddled off into the channel and watched the fellas catch a few waves. Surely enough I floated closer and closer until I was shoulder to shoulder with them in the bowl. I waited patiently and when the next set came, I put my head down and went. Success. No beatings. Glad it went that way and not the other. 

The danger of Mavericks is no exaggeration. You could get caught inside there and drown. Correct?

Giant, treacherous surf, hungry wildlife, massive rocks, deep, cold, dark water. A lot “could” happen. We’ll add these to the list of what makes surfing Mavericks such a riveting experience.

In my years here on earth I have accumulated a list of things that live up to the hype.

1. The women of Norway.

2. The beauty of the Hollister Ranch.

3. Trout fishing in Montana.

4. The dangerous beauty of Rio De Janeiro and the females there.

5. The dangerous beauty and power of Mavericks.

Nice list. I’ll have to take your word for the first four but, number five is an absolute I can attest to.

You started at 13 years old. How long did it take you to feel comfortable out there?
I still don’t feel comfortable out at Mavericks and don’t think I ever will. Respect through fear.

What did Jock Sutherland say about big Pipeline? “It’s like attacking a Tyrannosurus Rex for dinner!”

Did you have a mentor like Jay Moriarity did with Frosty?

Yes I did. A great friend, neighbor, and surfer by the name of Tim West. A fellow goofyfoot. He showed me the ropes at many of the heavier waves on the Northern California coast including Mavericks.

Have you ever come close to drowning at Mavericks?

Close is a relative word. I have found myself in situations that would have been a lot worse if I didn’t prepare the way I do. 

Ever see any exotic wildlife out there?
Lots of exotic wildlife. Seals, Sharks, Whales, you name it. The only time I have ever been scared for my life at Mavericks involved an angry alpha Elephant Seal chasing me into the rocks. That one could have gone either way. 

Those elephant seals are like football linemen. They are huge, but they can move!

What have been your best moments at Mavericks and what have been your worst?
My best moments at Mavericks have been sessions that feel like play, no matter how terrifying the conditions. My worst moments at Mavericks have been when I was not having fun. That is a bad feeling to have out there.  Some days you feel like you're hunting, others you feel like you're being hunted. 

You're addicted to the place aren't you? Like some guys are addicted to Sunset or Pipe. You think about it constantly don't you? Dream about it?
How could I not be? I get to surf beautiful, big waves in my backyard and visit with my Mom and Dad all in the same day! I do spend lots of time with my mind on the place. Also, yes. I’ve had this recurring dream of myself getting caught inside in the bowl at Mavericks. Everytime it happens I wake up holding my breath and gasping for air. Usually I smile and go back to sleep.

Is it love or lust?
Yes.

You spend a lot of time in Malibu training with Laird Hamilton. Is it fair to characterize you as Laird's youthful ward like Dick Grayson to Bruce Wayne? Are you Robin to Laird's Batman?
We'll go with that. Instead of waging a tireless war on crime, we’re waging a relentless pursuit on riding the unrideable.

What have you learned from Laird and what do you hope to learn from Laird? In 50 words or less. Just kidding.
Speed and take chances.

Satchel Paige was a famous African-American baseball player who wasn’t allowed to pitch in the big leagues. He was an athlete/philosopher like Laird who came up with these RULES FOR STAYING YOUNG. Do these jibe with what you have learned with Laird-sensei?

1.Avoid fried meats which angry up the blood.

2.If you stomach disputes you, lie down and pacify it with cool thoughts.

3.Keep the juices flowing by jangling around gently as you move.

4.Go very light on the vices, such as carrying on in society. The social ramble ain't restful.

5.Avoid running at all times.

6.Don't look back. Something might be gaining on you.

How did you two connect?
Laird would describe it as similar to finding a stray dog. Haha. I got connected with Laird and Gab through some great mutual friends.

Have you learned how to eat properly from The Hamiltons? How have they changed your habits?
Plants and animals! Simple and clean eating. 

And what about Gabby? Is she as nice and kind and smart and gracious as she is tall??
Gab is short compared to her kindness and intelligence.

What kind of training do you do with Laird and how does it prepare you?
During the week we alternate between land-based and water-based training. Then depending on the time of year, the orientation of training goals changes. Usually, land-based work is about developing a strong, durable, and powerful vessel. Then we use that vessel in the pool to train the mind and nervous system. We create chaos in a controlled environment and train the stress response. Program the autonomic response to be that of rational thought and deliberate action when in the face of threat.

How long can you hold your breath and are you surprised by the strengths that training with Laird has given you?
Like Laird says, “So far, long enough.” I can hold my breath upwards of six minutes. But a relaxed, static breath hold is irrelevant in the surf. What counts is being able to intermittently hold your breath and maintain an even keel while managing a high heart rate and high C02. 

What are your other favorite big wave spots? Do you like Hawaii? Nazare?
Peahi is as big and perfect as a wave can get. So yes, I love Hawaii and the Portuguese experience is always an adventure. I’ve had some great beatings over there. 

You're a goofy foot so have you surfed Pipe much or is that place just too crazy crowded and dangerous?
I’ve been out there before. I have a lot of respect for that beautiful wave but don't find myself very interested in battling 100 guys for waves.

I used to swim out there in the '90s and just watch. That place is insanely dangerous. The Reef but also the people. If you did on dry land what people do to each other at Pipe you'd go to jail for reckless endangerment
Mavericks is the same way. Enter at your own risk.  

I guess last winter was a total bust because of the atmospheric rivers. There are things that happened in Santa Cruz I've never seen before and I've seen some crazy ass Winters up there. Mavericks already had a September swell which is kind of unusual. Did you go up there?
I stayed back in Malibu. I’ve surfed lots of small Mavericks and that swell didn’t seem worth pulling the trigger for. I love the novelty of Mavericks in September and glad my friends got to ride a few waves!

Who impresses you at Mavericks these days? Is Peter Mel still dominating?
There is a great crop of younger guys charging Mavericks right now. Alo Slebir is a good friend of mine from Santa Cruz that has really stepped up in the last couple seasons. Super fun to participate and witness multiple generations raising the bar out in the bowl. Yes, Pete Mel still dominates. 

And what's the crowd like these days? 50 guys? More? It can be dangerous to have that many people there. Kind of like Pipe. People get desperate and take off on waves they shouldn't take off on.
Easily 50 or more on the busy days. The crowd makes for some interesting navigation and most of the time guys are forced to paddle into sub-optimal places to take off. Dangerous. Exciting. 

Do crazy stuff like go left.
Guy’s gotta eat.

My dad lived at the end of Airport Road and we would ride our little gay Honda Trail 90s up past the Moss Beach Distillery to the north of there in a place we called Bulletshell Ridge. You can see Mavericks from there but from the north it's just a big clamshell bowl. The left clamps shut and spits it just looks like pain.
Like Laird says, “View to a kill”. Have you ever run full speed into a brick wall?

Speaking of running full speed into a brick wall, Christian McCaffrey of the World Champion San Francisco Football 49ers trains with Laird too. I’ve emailed Laird and Gabby and said “Whatever Laird Superfood you’re feeding that guy, I’ll take a case.” Gabby said the guy trains like a beast. He sure runs like a beast. Niners going all the way this year baby!
Christian is one of my closest friends. 

Years ago Laird made People Magazine’s Most Beautiful People. Gabby said the second nicest thing a wife has said about a husband: “He’s beautiful when he’s in motion.” I’d say the same is true for CMC. He flys for a white guy.
What was the first nicest thing a wife said about a husband?

It’s NSFW. It was something Ava Gardner said about being married to Frank Sinatra. You’ll have to Google it. Please tell CMC that on behalf of all 49ers fans, he can fly for a white guy.
A great man on and off the field. Go 9ers.

As seen from Bulletshell Ridge I've described Mavericks as being the haunted house on top of the hill with bats flying out of the belfry or like seeing Tyrannosaurus Rex's clashing at the bottom of the valley.
If it's a foggy day: haunted house. If the sun is shining: ferocious carnivores exchanging blows. Don't get caught in the fray. 

What is your strategy for riding the lefts there? What is the degree of difficulty?

The only way out is through. Takeoff from the right and backdoor the bowl. There is very small margin for error and the consequences are serious. 

I would imagine towing is easier than paddling because I can imagine paddling isn't easy at all.
Obviously by grabbing the rope you mitigate complexity that goes into catching waves but you end up meeting an equal challenge when you're navigating the mutating, liquid freight train you let go on. You can run, but you can’t hide. 

Like Sewer Peak lefts on steroids. Are the lefts better on certain swells? Have you ever seen a day when it was just perfect and they all stayed open and it was a turkey shoot?
Yes, they are. I still have experience to gain before I tell you which direction is my favorite. I love all the different faces that Mavericks has to offer and I've had a handful of great rides on the left when I was least expecting the swell direction to be optimal. I’ll report back in a few seasons as I gather more data.

I've seen Peter Mel's son get some good barrels on the left out there. How many other guys are going left?
A small handful of hungry dogs. Mostly goofy foots and a few brave regular footers.

What are the beatings like? If you eat it on the lefts do you get pushed out to the channel or does it just drill you into the Impact Zone?
Pitbull with a porkchop. Most often I’ll get beat straight down and come right back up in the thunder dome. Bad place to get stuck. And if the West swell is funneling into the rocks, be like water. 

What's your strategy for this winter? New boards? Is Laird going to drive for you? 
Flavors of the season. New boards, new foils, new skis. We’re ready for whatever mother nature blesses us with. 

Has Laird ever towed you at Mavericks?
Not yet. Stay tuned. 

Has Laird ever surfed Mavericks? I don't think he's all that fond of cold water.

Laird hasn’t surfed Mavericks yet. If it was colder, desolate, and less crowded he would likely be more intrigued.

Well Laird ain’t keen on crowds, it seems like. He has invested a lot of time to avoiding crowds. He started tow surfing to get away from the crowds at Waimea Bay and Sunset. SURFER Magazine had a house at Backyards in the early 90s when they were first experimenting with tow. We thought they were weird. But they were taking off way outside at Backyards and kicking out at Sunset.

Everyone thought Laird and Buzzy and them were nuts, but then SURFER Magazine anointed tow surfing as cool, and now everyone’s in on the game.

And SUP is also a good way to avoid crowds. Just keep moving. And now foiling.

Sorry to turn surf talk into jock talk but I was born in San Francisco and grew up in Santa Cruz in the 1980s when the Niners ruled the world. I can remember EXACTLY where I was when Dwight Clark made The Catch in 1982 or whatever YEAR that was. So I’m obsessing on your friend Christian McCaffrey. He had a big day for the Niners yesterday: Twenty carries for 106 yards and three touchdowns. Seven receptions for 71 yards and a touchdown. Beast Mode Redux.

It’d be like if Luca Padua caught all the bombs at Mavs going both ways. The other guys would get eggy.

What do you think is more dangerous? Going left on a bomb at Mavericks or running full tilt into a wall of 300+ lb linemen?

Well, I would take a bomb to the teeth at Mavericks long before I’d run into the Meat Wall. 

And C would charge the meat wall long before he’d go over the falls at Mavericks. We’ve talked about this before. It seems similar to asking, “Would you rather get hit in the front of the head, or back of the head?”

Let’s just say Meat Walls and Mavericks will both fall under the banner of objective danger. Different but equal. 

God bless.